Replaced it a few days ago and it works so far. Make sure the temperature matches the original. I replaced the wrong one L48-30F and it defrosted every hour. I think the wire colors are coded for the temperature.

Was installed and working properly. No issues seen as of this post.UPDATE: Died after 90 days installed. Not impressed.....

My Whirlpool fridge was acting up. The freezer was cold, but the fridge was warm.Many (most) refrigerators stay cold because the freezer section blows cold air into the fridge when the thermostat calls for it. The fridge doesn’t actually do any of the cold work - the freezer is where all the action is. In a frost-free freezer, there is a heating element that is controlled by a timer or other circuitry. At certain intervals, the heating element comes on, melts the ice on the cooling elements, and the melted ice flows through a hole at the bottom of the freezer and into a tray hidden under the unit. A fan blows air across it and evaporates over time, so it doesn’t spill over. Something was wrong with this cycle on my Whirlpool refrigerator/freezer.I took apart the freezer compartment and used a blow drier to clear the ice off of the cooling elements, which had gotten really thick. By doing that, the fridge began working again, but only if I used the blow drier daily to clear out the ice. I couldn’t keep anything in the freezer, and I had to use a strap to keep the freezer door closed or the door would fall off (after removing the innards of the freezer drawer).After watching some YouTube videos, I thought at first it was the control module, which, like a defrost timer, controls the timing of the defrost cycle on some freezers. That didn’t fix anything. More videos suggested that the culprit was the defrost thermostat. You generally have to use wire cutters and cut the old one out, which, at first, kind of psyched me out and I didn’t want to do it. Finally, rather than buy a new fridge ($1000+) or hire someone (~$500), I bit the bullet and cut the defrost thermostat out. The thermostat is supposed to be open (low resistance) when cold, like 0°F, and be closed (high resistance) when warm, to shut off the defrost cycle and keep the system from overheating. You can’t test it in ice water - it’s not cold enough. Luckily, I have another freezer, so I tested it — the thermostat I removed would not open in cold temperatures. I bought this product, and put in. I used a shrink sleeve over the new wire connections so that, with a little heat, it would seal up each connection. Sadly, at first it didn’t work.I then thought it was the defrost heating element, so I ordered one. When it arrived, just as I was putting it in, I realized that in the testing process I had disconnected the heating element. Once I connected it, everything began working perfectly again and my fridge and freezer have been trouble free for about a month now.When your fridge doesn’t work, it can be very stressful, and calling a repair person can involve a pretty big expense (maybe half the cost of a new one), and you might have to wait a while for them to come to your house. A new fridge is even more expensive. I’m happy to get out of my dilemma, spending less than $50 (I returned the unused heating element).

Replacement