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Reviewed in the United States on September 22, 2023
I felt obligated to write a review because there are so few of them online and when a company builds a quality product for an affordable price, they deserve credit. I bought these directly from Maxpeedingrods, but it is the same part as Amazon. I bought the adjustable model and installed them on a 1995 Volvo 850 sedan.Quality:Out of the box it seems pretty good. Quality welds, painted properly, pretty heavy. They seem sturdy enough to withstand the long haul. Definitely more sturdy than Volvo stock.Installation:Instructions are lacking but I have used coilovers before so I knew my way around them. I highly suggest watching multiple videos regarding installation and setting ride height. Once you understand the concept and what each lock nut does and what preload is, you'll be in good shape.The biggest pain with installation on the Volvo, specifically, was the rear spring lower seat. It has a clamp-down bracket held in with a carriage bolt and rusted nut. The carriage bolt will strip and then the bolt just spins. I had to use a dremel to cut a slot in the bolt head and hold it from rotating with a flathead screwdriver.Specific to the coilovers and the Volvo, make sure on the rear shocks that you install the two large spacer nuts ABOVE the mount in the trunk. If you install them below, the shock will be too long to preload the spring. This is easy to make a mistake because the Volvo stock have only the nut above the mount. You need to make sure the two spacers and the nut are installed on top.You will have to drill out the bushings for the rear shocks. They are machined at 0.500" and the Volvo stud they need to install on is 0.560". I used a Dremel carbide bit which is designed to HOG off metal. If I had a large enough drill bit I would have rather drilled them for concentric accuracy, but I did not.It is not explained, but note that the bolts they provide you are used to install the Maxpeedingrods lower spring seat in the rears. It holds down the spring seat firmly.The ONLY parts re-used from the Volvo are1. The rear shock lower nut and washer2. The front strut two lower bolts (obviously)3. The front strut sway bar end link nut to hold the end link on (end link is temporarily disconnected for install)Other parts can all be discardedFor the rears, I have the shock adjusted as short as it will possibly go and the sprint seat is adjusted also as low as it will possibly go. This combo worked well. For the fronts, I have 8mm of preload on the spring and then the height is also adjusted as low as it will possibly go.Ride height:My initial ride height was 23". I have the settings on the front and rear bottomed out and my new ride height is 21.75" (approx) from the bottom of the rim (17" rim) to the fender lip. You don't measure to the ground because then tire inflation would be a variable. So from stock, these can only achieve 1.25" which is "good" but could be better if they had designed more adjustment on the bottom end. On the top end, you could literally jack them up 4" and look like a Subaru Crosstrek. I like it but I wish they could go further.Ride comfort:Not great but that is my fault for having expectations. I've had quality BC racing coilovers on another car and had to remind myself that coilovers are just STIFF. So from my leaking stock setup, these are noticeably stiffer. But this also has a bonus. The steering is more firm and the body roll is so much improved when doing a gradual turn at 85 on the highway. So there are tradeoffs. I cannot knock the brand because I really believe if I had bought $1200 BC racing coilovers it would feel the exact same. Just prepare yourself if you have never used coilovers that they can feel like you are riding on bump stops or have no springs whatsoever.Other comments: If you do your research on Maxpeedingrods across other car models a common complaint is the rears are "bouncy". I can attest. I installed the left side before the right and the left rear was bouncy (poor dampening) and the stock on the right did a much better job of settling and dampening. So right now I have the dampening in the rears set to setting 24 because they are bouncy and the setting in the fronts set to 0 because they are already way too stiff.I have driven on them once so I can not comment on longevity but if I do have problems, or something changes, I will be sure to update this review. So "no news" is "good news" if you don't hear back from me.
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