Universal Oven Thermostat, 6700S0011

Let's consider two basic oven control designs - the "modern" ones (starting from around 20 years ago) where the burners are controlled by a circuit board module and relays, and the "old school" ones, where the burners are controlled by a thermostatic switch. This device is the latter. This is the type with a gas-filled metal capillary tube that mounts inside the oven on little clips along one wall, and the changes in gas pressure inside the tube cause a small diaphragm device inside the control to move, and that's what switches the burners on and off at the appropriate temperature.This device is designed to switch BOTH legs of a 220v electric oven, but there is no reason it could not be used in circuits that only switch one leg on and off. The included wiring diagram shows how to do this.Before you read any further: If you don't know how to wire appliance and house wiring circuits, including 220v with two "hots" and a neutral, stop right now. This part is not for you. Installing this requires a basic understanding and respect for serious high-current circuitry, including knowing how to find and use high-temperature wire and spade lug crimp connectors. If you don't know what any of that means or have never done wiring like this before, STOP NOW.Now...on with the review. The device itself is very sturdy and looks and feels like many Robertshaw controls I've used in ovens and stoves before. Whether they actually make this part, I cannot say. It does not have any manufacturer name on it, although mine did have the part number 6700G0011 on it, which is a Robertshaw number (but that number is used by other makers of this same part).It has spade lug connections for the two hot 220v feeds, and outputs for the bake and broil burners. It is designed so that when you turn on the bake circuit, BOTH elements come on until the oven reaches temperature, and then the broil element goes off, leaving just the bake on. This is designed so that the oven preheats up to temperature faster. But be aware that if you put something in the oven that you don't want heated from above at all, even during the first few minutes of cooking, then preheat the oven before you put your food in, so the broil element will not be in use. The broil circuit does NOT work like this. If you turn the dial all the way clockwise to the broil position, only the broil element comes on.The dial turns back to "off" with a good firm click. But when you turn it all the way clockwise to the broil position, there is just a cushy sort of resistance to the motion. You know you're on broil because you are at the extreme rotation of the dial, and you can feel "something" in the motion there. But I wish it firmly clicked at the broil position like it does at the "off" position. The instructions say it should "click" at broil, but mine did not.Temperature accuracy and repeatability was excellent, BUT... it does NOT match the numbers on the dial. Mine was a good 50-75 degrees F off from what the dial said. Once I figured that out (for example, knowing that 275 on the dial is really 350 in the oven), I found it to be very precise. Every time I tested and retested it over several days, I could turn the dial to a certain position where I knew what the actual temperature was the before, and got the same reading dead-on within 5 degrees.The instructions say that you can calibrate this control by inserting a slim screwdriver into the hole down the control shaft to rotate a tiny screw at the base of the shaft. I have seen screws like that on other controls like this. But there was no such screw on this one, and no way to otherwise adjust it that I could find. This is my only real complaint about this thing, and is the reason I gave it 4 stars instead of 5.IF ANYBODY KNOWS WHERE THIS adjustment is, please comment in reply to my review so I can correct this and try it out on mine.I am not using the markings on the dial at all. I removed that little metal ring with the numbes on it,and I am making my own new face plate (a silk-screened board) for the oven with my own numbers on it, so I will make the numbers so they perfectly match that the oven temperature really is. If you don't want to go to all that trouble, I suppose you could cobble together your own little ring and put it on the dial, or make something up with a computer drawing, but it won't look all that great.There is a "pilot light" connection on this control. It is designed to drive a 250v or 120v neon oven pilot or "preheat" lamp (depending on how you wire the lamp in). It comes on when the burner it on, and goes off when the burner is off, and works correctly in both the bake and broil modes. So it is indeed a "preheat" indicator because when you turn on the oven, it will come on until the oven reaches temperature, and then go out. It will still go on and off as the burner goes on and off while cooking, but you can definitely tell that your oven is preheated by waiting for it to go out.Because this control turns on BOTH the bake and broil burners during the preheat time, you may have to modify your oven's wiring if your oven did not originally work that way (and many don't). A typical electric oven bake or broil element is about 3000w, so figure 14 amps. And that means 28 amps when they are both on. The inside of my oven used 16 ga wire for the "common lead and the element leads, and no way would I feel safe pushing nearly 30A through wire that small. (Frankly, I'm surprised they used 16 ga even for half that with one burner on at a time!) I replaced all that wiring with 12 ga high temperature wire.More about the knob: The shaft is shaped like a rectangle with slightly rounded corners. It is not a round or half-round ("D" shape), so you won't be able to use nearly every commercial oven knob out there on this thing. You'll have to use the knob that came with it... unless you are handy with a Dremel and some files and you are willing to reshape the end of the shaft or modify the hole in your knob.This really is a good-operating device. Just don't expect it to drop-in like an OEM part designed just for your oven. This is a "universal" device, which means it presumes a good working knowledge of appliance repair and electricity.

Thermostat quit work in less then 3 months

Was missing some parts and I had to swap out the mounting bracket. The screws that came with it wouldn’t thread in.But…it worked. I couldnt find a part for my stove so this worked out fine. There is a tap on the temp you can pull it off to fine tune temp setting.

I did not install myself. I ordered this part and had appliance guy install. He said it was very easy. My old Kenmore range is up an running again. Finally I can cook under 450 degrees!

This is a nice kit but it didn't work out for me. The thermostat is designed to apply 240v to both the broil and bake coils while baking. My older GE oven (Thermostat GE WB21X177) only applies 120v to the broil coil when baking and there is no way to configure the connections to circumvent this. You could if the connection labeled COM 3 was temperature controlled but alas, it's just an on/off switch built into the thermostat. The circuit diagram shipped with the kit is unclear and it took me quite a while to match up the labels on the diagram with the labels on the part. Also, while the box says 6700S0011 the part in the box is labeled 6700G0001B.Since I procrastinated installing this, it's too late for me to return it. I can't blame them for that. Besides, the directions call for you to snap off part of the stem to fit your oven and once you do that, you can't return it anyway. Oh, well.

Worked as advertised in my early 1960 GE wall oven. Just a slight wiring modification was required. Note: The switch has more functionality than one would expect. I suggest reading the instructions completely before installation so you can fully understand these features.

It's a good replacement thermostat for the upper large oven for our 1969 Frigidaire Deluxe unit. But you have to know what you're doing with electrical! Our control circuitry was wired quite differently than what was needed by this thermostat so I had to rework and re-route much of it. Our old unit only routed one side of the 240 thru it, this new one controls both legs of the 240V. Also, we lost all the self cleaning functions but that's alright. It's quite accurate- but really due to the fact that I glued the knob into position when the oven was at 350 deg as confirmed by multiple thermos. So the 250 thru 450 range is very accurate and repeatable. I also added an Auber Instrument digital thermometer to give feedback as to what the oven is doing as it's running. This nice digital readout adds much to the old oven. In many ways, with the new thermostat and the digital readout, this old oven is better than ever. When this thermo is heating things up, it powers both the lower main element and also the broil element. When it gets near set point it turns the broil element off. A faster heat up results. But for my oven, the current load through one spade lug is about 24 amps when it's in this mode. I wish it didn't operate this way- 24 amps is sort of high for this type of connector. The switched voltage is handled by two spade lugs, one of the main element and one for the broil element. That's fine. It should be ok though. I used female spade connectors that were crimped by a bench mounted $12,000 AMP crimp machine at work. Not many have access to this type of device unfortunately. For my wire butt splicing in the control section I used AMP Stratotherm connectors. This is a high end industrial part that should help ensure longevity.

I am a professional appliance technician. I got this for my father's old wall oven because the factory part was discontinued. This thing flat out does not work. It's obvious that it's not a defective part, just a crappy part. Don't waste your money, just get a new oven.