Upper & Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft Column fit for 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado Avalanche Suburban GMC Sierra Cadillac Escalade Yukon Replace Part # 25958109, 19329330

This part failed twice. Installed it while on vacation, towing a 32ft trailer. Came off the gear box twice due to fitment, quality. Lost steering. Both times it was in the middle of nowhere so I had to make it work. Both time the bolt was still in and tight. Do not buy this one. Luckily nobody was hurt.

For my AWD 2001 GMC c3 this part didn't fit. The coupling that connects to the gearbox had so much slop in it even at 30lbs torqued. The male end that connected to the steering column is smaller in diameter and also a very loose switched back to my old one for now night and day difference I feel like I can keep it on the road now.. also just to say I had already replaced all my frontend steering components and wheel assembly and CV axles so I figured I finish it out with this.. just check around first this said it fit which it did but the ends are to big or and male end to small

Definitely worth the money !

Not sure what everyone is complaining about. I replaced all the parts that came with this and the knocking in the steering wheel is gone. I didn't expect it to come with a new steering shaft bearing (the plastic green part that slides into the back of the steering column in the cab), but it did, so I greased it up even more and used it.

Works great

Odds are that replacing these parts in your Chevrolet or GMC truck or SUV will not eliminate the knocking sound you hear from your steering column. The knocking can come from one or more parts associated with the column.Starting just under the dash and moving down, they are:1. A worn/loose lower steering shaft bearing – GM part # 889636172. Worn/loose splines of the upper intermediate steering shaft - GM part # 193293303. The same upper intermediate steering shaft, worn or not, knocking against the hard plastic interior sleeve of the firewall boot4. Worn/loose knuckle joints of the steering gear coupler shaft – GM part # 25958109To eliminate all possible sources of knocking, you must fire the parts cannon. Replacing all of these parts at once will give you the best chance of eliminating the problem with the least amount of re-work and frustration. Be aware that replacing these items (especially the poorly designed and ‘engineered-to-fail’ OEM and aftermarket steering shaft bearing), won’t fix the knock forever. Eventually, one or more of these parts will wear and the knocking will return. This has been an ongoing complaint by GMC and Chevrolet customers beginning around 1999 and still continues today. Use only genuine GM parts wherever possible as aftermarket parts will only cause you grief.Tips to maximize your effort if you choose to proceed with this repair:1. Pop out the bearing of a new GM part # 88963617GM. Remove the factory grease (if any) from both parts, reassemble and re-pack with a good quality, heavy Moly grease.2. Before installing GM’s ‘new and improved’ upper intermediate shaft part # 19329330, you MUST modify it by installing a ¼” grease fitting. See photo for placement. Warning: BEFORE detaching this shaft, you MUST immobilize your steering wheel. Tip: Use your driver side seat belt. Failure to do so will allow your steering wheel to turn past its intended rotation which will destroy your steer wheel coil clock spring.3. Drill and tape the hole, test fit the fitting, check for proper grease flow then remove it. Remove the U clip from the end of the shaft by pulling it straight out. You can discard this part as it is no longer needed. See photo. Fill the open ‘clip’ end of the shaft with J-B Weld or two-part epoxy to reach approximately 1” above the bolt hole in the shaft. Do not allow it to travel further up the shaft into the splines. See photo. Allow to cure for 48 hours, then clear the bolt hole opening with a drill.4. Remove the firewall boot that houses the shaft. Using a razor knife, cut through both boot seams down to, but not through, the base. See photo. Inside you will find a smaller rubber boot that houses ahard plastic sleeve with small seals in both ends. See photo. Remove the small rubber boot and extract the plastic sleeve. The upper steering shaft rotates within this sleeve and a knock or rattle can develop as the small seal’s on both ends wear. Remove the sleeve and clean it thoroughly with Acetone. Aggressively rough up one square inch on the center of its exterior then apply a 1/8” layer of J-B Weld to that area. After curing, drill, thread and install a ¼” grease fitting through the J-B Weld and plastic sleeve. Note that the threaded tip of the fitting should not come in contact with the rotating shaft. Reassemble, cut an opening for the grease fitting to protrude through the boot and reattach the boot halves with CA glue.5. Slide the shaft into the boot, install the boot to the firewall, connect the shaft at both ends and then install the fitting.6. Pump heavy, Moly-based grease into the shaft fitting. Use your best judgement as to how much to inject. Tip: As the grease goes in, pay close attention to the silver shaft at the point where it slides into the black shaft. See Photo. You’ll notice at some point that it starts to move out of the upper black shaft as the grease fills the interior, forcing out air and pushing its way into the splines. At this point, stop after one or two more pumps.7. Pump the same Moly grease into the boot fitting until you feel that the inside of the plastic sleeve is filled. Tip: With each oil change, you may want to add a bit more grease to both fittings. Another way to approach this is to wait until the knocking reoccurs. When it does, add grease to the shaft. If the knocking stops, you’ve found the source. If not, add grease to the boot, and so on. If it doesn’t stop, then your next suspect would be the shaft bearing under the dash. And last, the steering gear coupler shaft, # 4 above.There are many videos on YouTube and Chevy/GMC truck forums detailing the replacement of these four parts. I strongly suggest doing your homework before moving forward. Order your parts so you can familiarize yourself with them and take your time watching these videos. Weed out sketchy advice e.g., anyone using the words, “zip tie” or “pipe clamp.” The hardest part of the total job is the replacement of the steering shaft bearing under the dash due to a cramped work area. The rest is easy,Common sense tells you that altering any factory or aftermarket part (in this case, the above steering shaft with a grease fitting), may compromise the integrity of the part(s) which could lead to their failure and the possibility of injury or death. If you are not comfortable with your mechanical abilities, or if proceeding with these repairs and modifications concerns you, then consult with a local qualified mechanic for their advice and guidance.

I need to return it , it didnt fit, hope i still have time , im still trying to get that chevy to drive right , but i work all the time , its my personnal bucket truck , i own the company

Not worth anything, very poorly made. I definitely would not recommend this brand or particular part.